1989 Chevrolet Silverado Dually Rear Brake Replacement

Replacing the rear brakes on a 1989 dually is very similar to replacing any drum brakes except for a few minor details. One, there are two wheels on each side to be removed instead of one. Two, the axle must be removed to get the brake drum off (No biggy, relax.). And three, the parts on a dually are bigger and thus heavier than on most cars and trucks, so use caution when removing heavy parts.

1989 Chevrolet Dually Rear Brakes From Amazon Easy Link

The steps for replacing the rear brakes on your 1989 Chevrolet dually are listed below in complete detail with photo’s too!

Tools You Will Need

  • Sockets and a socket wrench with an extension.
  • Breaker bar.
  • A 2-ton floor jack.
  • Jack stands.
  • 2 Flat head screw driver.
  • Flashlight.

Parts You Will Need

  • New set of brake shoes.
  • Brake parts replacement it (recommended).
  • Brake grease.
  • Brake cleaner.

First we’re going to remove the wheels.

  1. Park the truck on a clean, level, surface.
  2. Chock the front tires well.
  3. Choose which side your going to start with and crack the lug nuts loose with your breaker bar and extension. The dually wheel set-up does not allow access with a standard socket. An extension must be used. Employ a support of some sort for your extension tools to work properly (See photo below).
  4. Once the lug nuts have been cracked loose jack up the side your working on, or the whole rear end, your choice. And set it down on jack stands.
  5. Remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and set aside in a safe place where they won’t be lost.
  6. Remove the two wheels from the axle and set aside or under the truck for added protection in case the truck falls. Both of the wheels should slide off one after the other. If the inside wheel doesn’t slide right off you can tap it with a hammer to break it loose. Do NOT tap on the lug nut bolts.
Leverage your extension when breaking the lugs loose.

2nd The Axle Bolts & Axle

  1. Remove the 8 bolts on the end of the axle. These bolts help to keep the axle in place. Use a large screw driver or other item to hold the drum from spinning while you crack them loose (See photo’s below).
  2. Once these are removed the axle will slide out (See photo). Set aside in a safe, clean, location.
  3. The brake drum is still held in place by the thrust washer inside. Use needle nose pliers or a flat head screw driver to remove the retaining clip (See photo’s).
  4. There is a key that the retaining clip was holding in place. Use a magnet, or tweezers, or maybe the needle nose pliers to remove the key (See photo’s).
  5. The thrust washer is removed by turning it counter-clockwise until it comes off of the threads (See photo’s).

3rd We Will Remove The Brake Drum

The brake drum is ready to come off now that the thrust washer and axle are out of the way. Pay attention to where your fingers are on the drum and what is directly under it (toes!). Leaning into the wheel well pull the drum towards you. It should slide right off and it can be heavy!!

If the brake drum doesn’t slide off access the back side of the brake plate. There is a small access hole on the back of the brake plate, on the bottom. If it is not open, use a screw driver and hammer to break out the little metal window. Slide one screw driver in to lift the adjusting lever off of the brake adjuster and twist the sprocket to remove the pressure of it pushing on the brake pads. The left side twists upwards to unscrew and the right side twists downwards to unscrew I believe.

Brake Adjuster Access

Once you have relieved the brake adjuster the brake drum should slide off. If it still won’t slide off take a hammer and tap around the circumference of the brake drum until it does come loose. Set the brake drum aside making sure that dirt does not get inside of it.

Brake Drum

4th Now You’re In! You Can Start Replacing the Brakes.

There are a couple of different places you can start removing the brakes at, top, or the bottom. I’ve started at the top only to have the assembly fall to pieces in my hands, so now I always start at the bottom. It’s just a matter of preference. I prefer the parts to stay put until I want them to come apart.

1. Brake shoes. 2. Front shoe retaining spring (Usually Orange). 3. Rear shoe retaining spring (Usually light blue). 4. Wheel cylinder. 5. Retaining spring attached to guide and rear return spring.. 6. Parking brake strut. 7. Mounting springs. 8. Parking brake lever. 9. Adjuster lever.
10. Parking brake cable. 11. Lever return spring (Usually brown). 12. Shoe return spring *Usually blue). 14. Star adjusting wheel.

Caution: There is asbestos in this area. Do not blow out dust with compressed air or your mouth!

  1. Starting at the bottom, remove the blue shoe return spring. This will allow the start wheel to be removed.
  2. Remove left shoe retaining spring using a socket on an extension to press and twist it in. This will release the front shoe.
  3. Swing the shoe up until the tension on the top yellow spring is released and remove it from the assembly.
  4. Do the same to the right side allowing the brake cable to remain attached.
  5. Clean the housing with brake cleaner and a toothbrush.

The 5th Step Is Install Your New Brakes!

  • Dab some of the brake grease on the wear points around the brake back plate. There should be 6 specific spots that wear easily and need grease applied. At the 1 o’clock, 3 o’clock and 5 o’clock positions, and continuing around the next one is the 7 o’clock position, 9 o’clock and lastly 10 o’clock.
  • Put the new rear springs on the new brake shoe. The 1989 dually brake has an additional attachment. The animation below demonstrates how this additional wire attaches.

Once you attach the above illustrated springs and hooked them on to the top post, bring the shoe down into position and attach the shoe retaining spring. The photo’s below detail how the push pin works to hold the shoe in place.

Insert the pin from the back side of the brake, through the hole. Using a socket press the spring down and slide the pin up into the slot and then twist…
. . .by twisting the spring or the pin one quarter of a turn it locks the pin into place. It may take several tries to get it.

Once you have the rear side shoe attached and pinned, do the same for the front shoe.

Make sure the wheel cylinder plugs (Coming out each side of the cylinder) are properly lined up with the brake slots made for them to sit into.

Attach the spring at the top of the brake shoe to the pin at the top and rotate the shoe downwards while keeping the top in position.

Place the parking brake strut into position with its spring when you lower the shoe down.

Attach the hold down pin.

Screw the adjusting star into its smallest position where you cannot see any of the threads. Set it into position at the bottom of the brake and attach the new blue brake return spring at the bottom.

Isn’t it Beautiful!

Great job! This brake job is almost done! Now let’s put it back together!

6 Putting The Wheel Back Together

  1. Make sure the brake drum is clean inside. If not, wipe it clean. Only use brake cleaner or warm soapy water! Then, carefully lift it into position of the axle. It should slide on easily. Be careful not to damage the bearings inside the brake drum neck. If the brake drum won’t fit over the new brake shoes, compress the shoes by pressing them inward and make sure the star adjuster is at its smallest position and try again.
  2. When you have the brake drum back on it’s time for the thrust washer, “key” and retaining clip. The thrust washer needs to be carefully screwed back on the axle. Don’t force it. It may take a couple of tries to get it to start on the threads. Once it’s started it will screw on very easily.
  3. Snug the thrust washer on but don’t over tighten it. Line up the cut-outs so the “key” will fit back in and then attach the retaining ring to hold the “key” in position.
  4. Grab your axle, wipe it down to remove any dust or debris that may have got on it, and slide it back in. When it’s almost all the way in it may bump up against something. Take your time!! Twist the axle, make SURE it is level so it will fit back into the gear. It will suddenly catch its spot and drop into position if you’re patient.
  5. Now attach the 8 axle plate bolts. Check your specifications but I believe it’s 115 inch lbs tork on them.

7 Adjusting The Brake

This is a good time to adjust the brake adjuster. Remember the Star adjuster at the bottom of your brake set-up? You can access that adjuster like you did in step 3 to release the brake shoes from the brake drum. Now, you WANT the brake shoes up against the brake drum, just enough to cause a slight drag. To do this:

  • Ensure the front wheels are chocked well.
  • Move the gear shift inside the truck to the neutral position. Pay attention if the truck tries to roll. You don’t want it falling off its jack stand, especially if your under it adjusting the brake!!
  • If your chocks held the front wheels in position leave the truck in neutral and go back to the wheel you were working on.
  • Turn the wheel drum by grasping a mounting screw and turning it or turning the brake drum itself. Do you hear any drag from the brake shoes? Probably not, you just put them on. You want to hear, or feel, a slight drag.
  • Using a flashlight and one flat head screw driver access the hole on the back of the brake.
  • For the left side I believe the Star Adjuster will be pushed downward from the access hole. Shine your flashlight into the hole. Can you see the star adjuster inside? It should be right there.
  • Put your flat head screw driver into the access hole and push the Stars points downward so the brake shoes will be pressed outwards.
  • Have an assistant, or yourself, turn the brake drum. Any drag yet? If not, turn the Star adjuster a few more turns until you hear a drag on the brake drum and you will begin to feel some resistance when you try to turn the brake drum. Once you feel or hear the shoes contacting the inside of the brake drum, stop. That is perfect!

8 Put Your Wheels On And Take It For A Spin

Put the tires back on. First the inside tire, then the outside tire. Don’t mix them up. The rim is fashioned in a way that they will not go on properly if you have them backwards (See the photo below).

The tire rims must meet in the middle. If not put on in proper order you won’t be able to get the lug nuts on.
  • Put the wheels on and don’t forget the metal plate.
  • When you put the wheel cover on make sure the holes line up.
  • Put your lug nuts on using the socket and extension. Torq the lug nuts to 140 ft/lbs.
  • If you have another hub cover put that on now too using a soft mallet.

Your Done!

Easy Link To 1989 Chevrolet Dually Brake Kits At Amazon

Test the brakes. If they have resistance take it for a test drive. If the pedal feels too low you can always go to that adjusting window and turn the Star adjuster more to create more contact between the shoe and the drum but don’t over tighten or you’ll be wearing down your brake shoes because they are constantly braking! Good Job!

Top Dead Center – T.D.C.

Top Dead Center, otherwise known as TDC, is the culmination of the engine electrical system. If you don’t have TDC you don’t have a car that runs, you have a lawn ornament!

You can change the spark plugs, replace the distributor or install a new coil, but none of this will matter if you don’t have T.D.C.

T.D.C. is the starting point of the rotation that the the cylinders go through in their firing order. The camshaft, located below the pistons, which are below the spark plugs, within the cylinder the spark plugs are screwed in to, with it’s varied lobes sets the pace for the order.

When you set the timing it is according to the first piston being at the T.D.C. of the first cylinder. Once you have that set you can set the distributor cap to the approximate location where the cam will be. Then, the vehicle will start and you can go on with the timing.

There are methods for finding T.D.C. One in particular I didn’t appreciate is the idea of putting my finger on the spark plug hole while someone turns over the engine until I feel the pressure of the air being expelled by the piston.

I’m not a tall person. To reach the spark plug hole on the first piston I have to climb into the engine bay of this Chevy 3500. Not the place I want to be while someone is cranking the 454 engine over!!

Manually turning the engine with a breaker bar……well, yeah right.

I came up with a method that is totally safe, far more accurate than the finger thing and kinda fun at the same time!

What I did is locate a hollow item with the same threads as the spark plug. This turned out to be really easy! Connectors and fittings for my air compressor have the same exact thread as a spark plug! And they are hollow too!

Balloon and compressor attachment,

So, with my threaded air compressor fitting I attached a party balloon to the end without threads. I blew into the other end of the air compressor fitting to inflate the balloon a little to make sure it would stay on the fitting. If it pops off when you blow into the fitting put a rubber band around the lip of the balloon or a tie wrap or whatever to make it stay.

Now screw the threaded end into the spark plug hole, but NOT SO FAR THAT YOU CAN’T REACH IT. I actually stuffed the balloon into my spark plug socket and then I held the socket with my fingers and screwed it in a few turns. When I removed the socket the balloon was still attached to the air compressor fitting.

I was able to stuff the balloon into the spark plug socket to make screwing it in easier.

Now, when you turn the engine over, locating T.D.C., the balloon will inflate when the number one piston rises in the cylinder! When the piston reaches the T.D.C. it starts back down the cylinder thus air is sucked back out of the balloon.

Here’s the balloon in place of the spark plug.

When I cranked it the second time I knew how big the balloon would get when it was at its fullest IE: T.D.C. When the balloon filled up again I could clearly see it from the drivers seat and I removed the air compressor fitting with the balloon attached (I was able to twist the balloon and it twisted the fitting in the spark plug hole and it came right out. I could see the top of the piston with my flashlight!

And there it is T.D.C.!

Now I knew I had the piston at T.D.C. and continued with the timing process!

When I had T.D.C. I was able to unscrew the balloon by had by twisting the balloon several times until it started to back out. I could have put the socket back on it to remove it, but twisting the balloon was just as easy.

Now you have another method for finding T.D.C.!

Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement/Repair

Something as simple as the windshield wiper, that so many of us take for granted throughout most of the year, can become a vital component to our safety when a storm rolls in.

Without windshield wipers we wouldn’t be able to drive when it rained! It’s impossible to see out of the windshield properly when sheets of water are flowing down the windshield.

All the years of taking the windshield wipers for granted then one rainy afternoon:

  • The windshield wipers won’t activate when you turn the windshield wiper switch.
  • The windshield wipers turn on, but won’t shut off!
  • The windshield wipers will only work on one setting (IE: High only, medium only or slow only).
  • The windshield wipers only swipe randomly.
  • You must work the windshield wiper switch manually to make them swipe.

Any one of those scenario’s is frustrating and dangerous. These are all characteristic of the windshield wiper motor that has gone out. Fortunately the motor is not difficult to replace. It is a time consuming accessing and removing the motor, but easy enough for the backyard mechanic.

Windshield Wiper Motors

Below is the windshield wiper motor we are looking for. It’s under the hood and attached to the firewall in front of the driver side. There is an armature that passes through the wall behind the wiper motor that the wiper arms are attached to. To remove this motor the wiper arms need to be removed first.

Windshield Wiper Motor
View of the windshield wiper armature attached to the windshield wiper arms.

In order to remove the wiper arms we will have to remove a tab at the base of the armature where it attaches to the cog stud.

Slide a screwdriver in between the tab and the wiper arm and this piece can be popped off. There will be a small washer piece with two holes in it that will drop out as soon as the tab is removed. Have your hand ready to catch it.

Once this tab is removed the windshield wiper arm can be slid off it’s cog stud. I used a large screwdriver and leveraged the arm off the stud with wiggling and leveraging. Set the armature aside where it won’t be stepped on or broken.

Now we are going to need to remove the grill at the bottom of the windshield. There are “wing” inserts at each end of the grill that must be removed first with a Phillips head. Then, there are screws within the grills (3 or 4 screws).

You’re going to need the hood open from now on to get this piece out. Lifting and lowering the hood as needed.

Wing Grill. One on each end with a screw holding it in.

On the underside of the hood, immediately in front of the grill, is a length of rubber. Simply lift and pull and it comes off the lip it’s attached to. Underneath the rubber are another row of 3 or 4 screws to be removed.

The windshield washer fluid hoses are attached to the underside of this grill. Pay attention when lifting it out so you can detach the hose.

Once we have removed the two wing grills, the grill screws, the rubber piece and the screws below it, and detached the wiper fluid hose, we can carefully remove the grill as one unit. Be sure to pull up on the grill so it will clear the armature studs. Set it aside in a safe place.

Inside the grill area you will find the extension from the windshield wiper motor into the grill area as seen below. The nuts just need to be loosened enough to get the ball out. The second one just needs to be able to slide over the ball. Set them down right where they are.

Windshield wiper motor armature attached to windshield wiper arms.

Now we will be under the hood to remove the windshield wiper motor. First, unplug the wire attachment. Lift the locking tab before pulling the plug out.

Remove the three ten millimeter bolts, highlighted in red below, holding the windshield wiper motor to the firewall and remove the motor by shifting it as necessary to allow the activation armature to come through the hole.

3 bolts to remove.
Lower bolt holding motor to wall.

And there you have it! You have two choices here to fix the windshield wiper motor. You can open up the rectangle box on the left that contains the control board and purchase a new board to insert (This will save you a few bucks) or you can purchase a whole new unit. Below you can see what you can save by purchasing the pulse board or the whole unit. It is a significant difference!


For myself, when I opened the rectangle box I found that one of the wires had fried. So, I soldered a wire across to bridge the gap. It worked fine for about a year!

Soldered a wire across the gap.

The windshield wipers worked great until we used the truck for a moving job. The truck had to climb a long, steep, hill two times a day for three weeks. Over heating was inevitable with the huge load it was hauling. The continual overheating was like placing a soldering iron in the wiper motor everyday. The blades would become so hot that they melted the solder around them.

At this point I had an old truck that I took the motor out of and replaced this motor with it and the wipers have been working fine.

The installation is the same as the removal. Line up the windshield wiper arms as close to the position they were in when you first removed them. There is a notch inside the wiper arm that attaches to the cog to help line up the wiper arms.

Thermostats and How They Work in an Engine

The thermostat plays an absolutely vital role in the operation of your engine, yet it is not very well understood how it operates. With a clear understanding of the operation of the thermostat and how they work in an engine you will be better able to diagnose engine overheating and everything from engine cooling to heating the interior of your vehicle. These are all related to the thermostat in an engine!

When the engine is not running, when it’s sitting in your driveway doing nothing, the thermostat is in a closed position. Now, here’s where the confusion begins. To look at a thermostat right out of the box it appears to be in an open type of position. The spring is in its elongated position. This extended spring, or elongated spring, is the closed position when installed in your vehicle. The crude animation below reflects exactly what the thermostat is doing in your engine.

When the engine is started the thermostat is closed. As the fluid becomes hot the thermostat opens. When the engine temperature becomes cool again the thermostat closes. Normally a thermostat does not open and close as often as in this .gif. It is a much slower process. Once it is open for a drive, it will stay open or near to.

This opening and closing of the thermostat is to control the flow of coolant. When the engine is started only some of the coolant is allowed to flow. This allows for a faster warm-up. An engine doesn’t perform up to its optimum until the engine is fully warm. The thermostat is expediting the warm up process by restricting a portion of the coolant.

When the engine is warm the coolant allowed to flow is proportionate to the temperature of the thermostat. If the thermostat is rated to open at 165 degrees then that thermostat will open or close according to the coolant reaching 165 degrees. Some thermostats are rated higher and some lower. They are referred to by laymen as summer and winter thermostats.

If you were to remove the thermostat completely from your engine, the engine will still run fine. You will find that it takes a lot longer for the temperature gauge to reach operating temperature, thus the responsiveness and power under load may suffer a bit, but you wouldn’t notice unless you know your car very well. The concern is that over time the engine will suffer and have a reduced life from running when it is not warmed up for peak performance.


When you find your vehicle is overheating check the air conditioning settings. When you are in traffic, on a hot day, running the air conditioning, it is a heavy load especially on an older engine. Try turning off the air conditioning before the engine completely overheats and you may find that’s all it takes to bring the temp down to operating level.

If the air conditioning is off, a little trick you can try when your engine is starting to overheat is, turn the heater on. Yep, that’s right. Turn the dial to high heat and the fan to full blast. This will activate the heater core which is like a small radiator inside the vehicle cabin. It blows air across the heater core fins and can cool the coolant enough to keep the engine from overheating. Obviously, if it’s hot outside, you will have to open the windows wide to let the hot air out of the cabin. Unless you enjoy a good sweat.

Your best bet is to avoid overheating in the first place. This is done by maintaining a clean, well maintained, cooling system. To accomplish this adhere to the following list!

  • Flush the radiator periodically, especially if debris has entered the system.
  • Clean the front fins of the radiator by removing bugs from it. The fins must be bug free to allow air to flow through and cool the fluid inside.
  • Never put water into the radiator unless it is for the purpose of diluting an undiluted radiator fluid. Water will corrode and rust the inside of the radiator, water pump, thermostat and hoses before you can say, “Oh shit.” Water is the most destructive element you can put in your radiator!
  • Keep the radiator topped off. Check the coolant level once a week and top it off as needed.
  • Do not place anything in front of the radiator. It must have a clear path for air to flow through it.
  • Don’t remove the thermostat for any length of time.
  • Replace the components IE: thermostat, water pump, hoses, etc. as they go bad. The cooling system is in constant action when the motor is running. Parts will wear out. Replace them as soon as you have a sign of trouble.
  • Check the condition of the radiator cap periodically (every 6 months). The radiator cap must make an air tight seal on the radiator. If it does not water will evaporate and exit through the cap. This can reduce the coolant level to near nothing in a short drive. A damaged or non sealing radiator cap can cause problems like the heater not working, the engine suddenly over heating and a high loss of radiator fluid. An engine won’t necessarily melt if it over heats but if it over heats multiple times at a high temperature the metal in the engine will break down and the engine can warp. When it warps you will have a blown head gasket.

If you think your engine is about to overheat, pull over in a safe spot, turn off the engine and open the hood. Allow the engine to cool. Then add coolant to the system. Do NOT spray water on an overheating engine. Do NOT remove the radiator cap under any circumstances. Wait until the coolant hose lines are pliable (squeezable by hand) before opening. If the coolant hoses feel firm that means there is high pressure in them and if you remove the cap that high pressure will come out on you!

The Heater Core

The heater core we spoke about earlier, to reduce the heat in an overheating engine, this heater core is what warms the interior of your vehicle on cold days. It’s a miniature radiator installed at the passenger foot area behind and below the glove compartment. The warm radiator fluid flows through the heater core all the time. When you want to warm the cabin of your vehicle a fan blows across the heater core and the heat is blown into the cab and warms it up.

Heater cores, like radiators, go bad after time. Especially if you put WATER into your radiator. This habit will reduce the life of your heater core to a few years, if that. You will know your heater core is going out if:

  • The floor on the passenger side is wet.
  • If the wet floor smells like radiator fluid.
  • If the odor of radiator fluid is in the cabin of the car.
  • If your windshield fogs up and it’s the middle of the summer!
  • If the windshield becomes really foggy in the winter and it doesn’t clear up easily with the defroster.
  • The cabin environment becomes unusually muggy.
  • The radiator fluid needs topping off more often than usual.

Any one of these are signs your heater core is going out. Fortunately the heater core is not all that difficult to replace. Your biggest hurdle may be just accessing the unit. Some vehicles the heater core is tucked way up under the dashboard. On others it’s right there at the foot area of the passenger and easy to access. Here is our page on Replacing the Heater Core.

The Water Pump

The water pump does exactly what its name implies, it pumps. At one time, long ago, it did pump the water in the engine so its name was spot on. But now-a- days radiator fluid has replaced water. So a more appropriate name for the water pump would be radiator fluid pump.

The water pump has a pulley attached to the front of it. The pulley is activated by the serpentine belt. When the engine is running the serpentine belt causes the pulley to spin which in turn also causes the radiator fan to spin . The radiator fan is attached to the front of the pulley via a clutch.

There is no mistaking when the water pump goes out. The engine will overheat within minutes if not seconds. When the water pump is going out, but it is still pumping some fluid you can check the weep hole for drainage. In the most inconvenient, difficult location to view, on the front, underside, of the water pump there is a small hole. You will need a flashlight and a view between the fan blades and behind the pulley to inspect it. When the water pump starts to fail this hole will leak radiator fluid. It is usually a small amount of fluid but it will leave a definite streak from the weep hole down the water pump. When you see this streak of fluid, the pump is definitely on its way out. Here you can read up on How to Replace the Water Pump.

Locate your water pump with this Amazon link that will take you to the vehicle information page for a water pump search.

Water Pump Search

That is the cooling and thermostat operation in your vehicle in a nutshell.

1989 Chevy Ignition Timing & The Little Tan w/Black Stripe Disconnect Wire

This is the most complete information, video and gif of the timing process for the 1989 Chevy ignition.

There is very little information on the internet about the 1989 Chevy 1 ton (Don’t even bother looking for the dually)! I intend to change that! Don’t get me wrong, there is page after page of information pertaining to the light weight 1500. Several about the medium weight 2500. But the heavy duty 3500….forget it! Here you have found one of the rare websites that has information for the Chevy 3500 with the 454 timing!

Today I’m going over the ignition timing and I’m also going to show you where to find that, ever elusive, little tan wire with the black stripe that you need to disconnect to set the timing! Let’s get to it!

We’ll be digging into the moving parts of the engine and some serious grease and oil, so my lady friends, and guys, pull back those long locks into a pony tail or bun and remove the fake nails so you don’t lose one down the carburetor or somewhere just as hazardous! No loose clothing or dangling ties and scarfs either!

The ignition timing for the 1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 (And 2500 & 1500) the correct specifications are:

  • Spark Plug Type: CR43TS
  • Spark Plug Gap: .035
  • Timing: 4 degrees BTDC (Yes, it is 4. Not 8 as you may see elsewhere.)
  • Firing Order: 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2

The best place to find information like this about your specific truck is on the engine label. When you open the hood it is right there above the grill. It’s an aluminum material sticker with all the information about the timing, belt routing and smog. This information is specific to your exact vehicle so use it above all and others! My 1989 sticker is dog eared but it is still there!

When I need to pick up spark plugs, or the distributor I just put in the truck, I check Amazon. The choices are endless and I like that. I don’t like to be boxed into a specific product my local parts store endorses with this old truck. The link below takes you straight to the vehicle identification page of the ignition parts section on Amazon.

Ignition parts

The Distributor

The distributor is the heart of the ignition system assisted by the coil and the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) they make up the upper portion of the starting system. There is also:

  • Starter – Located underneath the truck on the passenger side of the engine near the oil pan.
  • Starter Relay – Often confused with the starting solenoid. The starter relay is located at the firewall next to the positive distribution bus on the passenger side. The starter relay controls the fuel pump and the fuel level display.
  • Neutral/Clutch safety switch. The neutral safety switch won’t allow the engine to start unless it is in Park, or Neutral for an automatic or the clutch is depressed in a manual.
  • Starting Solenoid – Commonly confused with the above starter relay. The starting solenoid is located on the drivers side fender wall. The starting solenoid connects the power from the battery to the starter motor. The starting solenoid controls the 12v to the starter motor.
  • Oil pressure switch – This switch will not allow the ignition signal pass if the switch is malfunctioning or if the oil pressure is nil.

Once the signal from the ignition switch request has passed through all of these checks and balances, only then, will the engine turn over. After the engine starts there are two components that continue to work hard. They work just as hard as they do for the start engine sequence and those are the distributor and the spark plugs. Yes, the coil continues to put forth the energy for the spark plugs, but the coil has the resilience of solid state components. It is not in constant motion as is the distributor particularly and the violent atmosphere the spark plugs endure with the pistons causing a continual high pressure then sudden vacuum effect every few seconds.

The Distributor in Constant Motion

The distributor is in constant motion when the engine is running, constant! The threat of cracking, abrasions, scoring, etc. are common maladies for the distributor. The O ring separating and sealing the distributor and the engine can, and does, crack. This will produce a constant oil leak at the distributor Not enough to cause a “real” problem, but enough to leave a pool of oil on top of the intake….constantly.

On the other hand, a crack, or chip, of the distributor and you will notice a rough idle, sometimes an engine will misfire from this, or stall.

The distributor is very easy to replace on these trucks. Seriously, it’s a matter of removing the old one and dropping the new one in. That is all! And the price is surprisingly reasonable, depending on your taste. Below is the standard replacement distributor for the Chevy 3500.

Or, since the 1989 is considered a classic at 30 years old now, you may want to start putting in fancy replacement parts. I know I am!

The Spark plugs

Spark plugs, along with the distributor, are the work horses of the engine. The constant exposure to high pressure explosions and an instantaneous vacuum effect defines the life of your spark plug. It’s amazing they can last as long as they do! 50,000 miles is the suggested mile marker for new plugs. Some iridium plugs can claim a life of 100,000 miles! That’s just crazy.

Don’t give this much thought, just do it. The 454 engine is a beast. So, do your truck and yourself a favor and keep it running with good plugs. Again, these are considerably low priced and make all the difference in fuel economy, engine idle, power, it’s all affected by the spark plugs.

This link goes to a huge variety of spark plugs on Amazon. Titanium Bosch spark plugs, double titanium plugs (Yeah, they have that!), Champion copper plugs, the list goes on!

Spark Plugs of Every Kind

Here’s a quick run down on changing your spark plugs. That’s how important it is, I’ll even tell you how to do it!

When you’re changing your spark plugs only remove one at a time. IE: Start on either the left or the right side, it really doesn’t matter, remove the first spark plug wire by grasping the boot down at the engine, twist and pull. This can be a bear sometimes. Spark plug wire removers (Sorta like bbq tongs but shaped for a wire.) can be your best friend when getting these boots off the plug sometimes. If you pull the spark plug wire alone, you stand a huge chance of ripping the wire out of the boot and off of the connector. If you do this, don’t despair! I have a How to Repair a Spark Plug Wire page here (This link goes to my article on axleaddict.com) just for you.

I have used vice grips and a screw driver as leverage to remove a particularly difficult spark plug boot. Grasp the boot with the end of the vice grips BUT NOT SO FAR THAT YOU CATCH THE END OF THE SPARK PLUG INSIDE THE BOOT! If you get the end of the spark plug itself as soon as you engage the vice grips the ceramic spark plug will break!! When you know for sure you only have rubber boot in the vice grips, lock them and take a screw driver and leverage it against a sturdy part of the engine and leverage the vice grips until they pull the boot off straight out. I don’t want to catch any grief in the comment section on this method! I have used vice grips for years to remove the damn boot. Saves my knuckles and my sanity! Thank you very much!

Once you have the boot out, use a socket, maybe with a small extension, to unscrew the old plug, check the tip for carbon, burns, damage, etc., gap the new plug and put it in. I use a lubricant to put the plug wire back on (A little spit, okay.).

When you put the spark plug wire back onto the new spark plug, you want to hear it click onto the spark plug. If it doesn’t click on, then it is not attached. Sometimes squeezing the end that attaches to the spark plug before putting it onto the spark plug will tighten up the connector inside. Don’t squeeze too hard or it won’t go on at all.

When you’ve completed all the spark plugs, it’s time for the timing. Before checking the timing there is a tan wire with a black strip on it that breaks out of the wiring harness at the back of the engine near the firewall and the distributor. It can be tricky to find to say the least. The video shows you exactly where it is!

Now that you have the tan wire with the black stripe disconnected you can hook up your timing light (Yes, the 1989 Chevy 3500 still uses the good ol’ timing light), red to the positive on the battery, negative to a good source of ground and the induction to the first spark plug wire. Route all the wires so they are clear of the engines moving parts. Start the truck and set your timing. Below is the firing order for the 7.4 liter and 5.7 liter with an animation of it in motion!!

The 1989 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, 7.4 liter, 454, ignition system at work!!

When you have set the timing remember to reconnect the tan wire with the black stripe! You are all set.

Great job!

Jet Ski Carburetor Rebuild + Photo’s!

Summer is almost upon us with beautiful, glistening, lakes waiting for you to jet across! But first, you’ll want to rebuild that carburetor on your jet ski.

We’ll be working on the Yamaha 2000 XL 700.

Carburetor rebuild kits for your Jet ski on Amazon!

Rebuilding a carburetor is easy work if you follow a few very simple, yet seemingly obvious rules:

  • Work in a clean area. Decide where you plan to work on the carburetor and clean up the area. Get rid of any clutter. Wipe everything down. The cleaner the better. One errant piece of dirt can screw up the whole rebuild process.
  • As you remove parts, mark and label them. Have several bowls or cups set out to put screws in with a label. The sizes of the screws in a carburetor are as various as where you will take them from. This is really important.
  • Have a good light set up where your going to be working, along with lint free towels and paper towels.
  • Don’t remove anything until you have your rebuild kit in your hand. If you take the carburetor all apart while your waiting for the rebuild kit pieces have a good chance of disappearing.

Decide where your going to work on the carburetor, order or pick up your carburetor rebuild kit specific to your jet skis carburetor type. When you open the carburetor kit be very careful because some of the pieces are clear and very hard to see. You don’t want to lose them!

You will also want to have rags (lint free), spray carb cleaner, some Q-tips for the tiny passages, and compressed air, a screw driver (one pan and one phillips head).

Remove the Carburetor From the Jet Ski

You will need to remove the carburetor from the jet ski to work on it. Disconnect the negative from the battery terminal to avoid accidental starts.

1st In the engine compartment locate the air intake. The carburetor is below it. There are 6 screws attaching the air intake.

I removed the hoses while the carburetor body was still attached to the engine. It gave me leverage to get the hoses of and I didn’t risk removing a hose by accident and not seeing where it came from. As you remove the hoses label them! A piece of tape with a note written in black marker is all you need.

Label the hoses as you remove them! You can use tape to label them or write directly on the hose with a marker.

Now it’s time to remove the carburetor from the engine. Remember the throttle cable is still attached. It’s easier to remove it once you pull the carbs out.

These are dual carburetors that work in sync. Pay attention to how the carburetors are connected. Take a picture of it if you need to help you remember how they link.

The bolts attaching the carburetor to the engine have red arrows pointing to them. The yellow arrow, bottom center, is where the two carburetors connect.

When you are ready to pull the carburetors out lift them up together until you can access the throttle cable on the front side (looking down, the right hand side) of the carburetors.

The throttle cable has a barrel on the end of it that is set inside the throttle lever. To get the barrel to come out of the side of the hole you must line up the throttle cable wire with the slit in the throttle arm. Then the barrel will slide out of it’s home.

Now you have the carburetors out it’s time to rebuild it! Take it to your work area and grab a handful of paper towels or something else very absorbent because the first thing you’re going to open will have standing fuel in it. Just carrying the carburetors to your bench you may notice fuel leaking from passages. That’s okay. It’s supposed to have fuel in the passages.

Lay out your carburetor rebuild kit pieces and the instructions if any were provided. Rebuild kits will have extra pieces in it usually. These rebuild kits are assembled with multiple types of carburetors in mind. Your particular carburetors may, or may not, need all the various pieces in your kit.

As you work, do not change any of the adjustments on the carburetor or you will need to re-tune it when you are done! If you leave the screws on the outside where they are, you won’t have to re-tune it.

Start by selecting one of the carburetors to start with and separate the carburetors. Turn the carburetor over and remove the four screws on the bottom. These may prove to be difficult to remove. The screws on mine were so tight I ended up using vice gripes to get them started unscrewing so I wouldn’t ruin the phillips head on them.

When you separate the bottom this is what you will see inside. Look at your carburetor kit pieces and anything matching, replace. For example: The black diaphragm will definitely need to be replaced. The clear plastic piece will too. Any “O” rings as well.

Systematically go through each section of the carburetor cleaning all surfaces, spraying out all passages with carburetor cleaning then compressed air. Set the pieces aside in the order you removed them. There may be some white chalky material or goop the consistency of jello in it, wipe it out. Gasoline turns into a jello type substance when it sits for a while.

Once you have every surface and passage cleaned you will start putting it back together just as you took it apart. Look in your carburetor kit pieces and replace all “o” rings, gaskets, clear and otherwise, springs, float needle, etc. Your carburetor kit will most likely supply every gasket you need but not all the screws and springs. Some springs, etc., don’t need to be replaced so they are not provided.

When you have it all put back together pay attention to how the two carburetors link together. Mine were not liked properly, or at all I should say, just linking them properly made a world of difference in performance!

The main carburetor is supposed to actuate the second carburetor at this junction. As you can see the second carburetor wasn’t in the correct position to be actuated!

Make sure to tighten the last four screws really well or they will leak for sure! That is the main gas area where the float is. It has gas in it constantly so make sure you tork them down well.

You’re ready to put the carburetors back in the jet ski and you’re done! Good Job!

Amazon has every carburetor rebuild kit available right here!

Change a Tire (Everyone Should Know)!

How many of you know how to change a flat tire? According to a AAA survey 60% of Americans do not know how to change a tire. There is a comment though that of these 60% most could probably Google it. That’s reassuring…not!

When I was a driving instructor one of my biggest concerns was all these kids that I was teaching to come to a complete stop at a stop sign and yield to the other cars and so on, had no idea how to change the tire on the car they were driving! On average a person can expect to change a tire five times in their lifetime.

Driving lessons has had a profound impact on the death rate of teenage drivers, it’s a great program. But it could be much more! I am asking, “Why aren’t we teaching these kids something as basic as changing the tire on their vehicle?” It’s not like a flat tire is unheard of, or even rare. Flat tires happen to the best of us, at the most inconvenient time. Yet, these people don’t know what to do.

I decided to set aside some time, during the driving lesson, to go over changing a tire, the importance of knowing how to change the tire, the location of the spare tire and the tools to change it with and where in the vehicle to find instructions on changing the tire.

1 out of 10 students could say, “Yes, I know how to change a tire.” The rest of them either had no idea that a tire could be changed out on the road or that their were tools on board to do so. Some students were unaware that there was a spare tire hidden on the vehicle!

After the first lesson I would make a note on their sheet that their homework was to have someone show them how to change a tire before their next driving lesson.

The company I worked for at that time was very haphazard about record keeping and communication. This made it difficult to find out if the student had completed my assigned homework.

When I had enough of the haphazard way this business was run I moved on knowing that these kids are not going to learn this vital process of changing a tire. It bothers me to this day!

You can learn how to repair a flat tire here.

How to Diagnose and Change the Coil

To my lady mechanics, don’t let the coil, or using a meter to check it, intimidate you. These are just big words for a little thing. Pull your hair back, pull the acrylics, and let’s dig in to this.

The coil is the muscle behind the combustion in each cylinder of your engine. Without it the engine will run, but not very fast or efficiently. When your coil starts to go bad the symptoms that present themselves are very similar to many other components symptoms.

Some things you may notice when the coil is going out are:

  • Backfiring
  • The engine is hard to start.
  • When it does start it doesn’t run well.
  • The engine will run rough, and halting, and stalling.

The coil is a simple device. It’s job is to take the 12 V that a battery produces and amp it up to 12,000 V that the spark plug needs to ignite the fuel in the piston chamber. This .gif is a simple example of what the coil does.

To save yourself some money you will want to test the coil to make sure it needs to be replaced. Testing the coil involves using a multi-meter set for continuity.

Continuity Symbol on a Multi-Meter.

I like this video on YouTube. This guy goes straight to the point and clearly explains how to test the coil. He gives you a lot of information in less than 8 minutes.

If you’ve determined that it is the coil that is the problem, it’s a simple part to replace.

  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the negative battery post.
  2. Locate the coil. Usually on top of the engine very near to the distributor.
  3. Remove the spark plug wire from the top of the coil.
  4. Detach the plugs (two) going into the coil. Set aside noting which one went where.
  5. Determine how your particular coil is attached to the engine. On the vehicle I worked on, the coil was attached by a bracket that held down two other components. It was cumbersome and far more difficult than need be, but that’s what it was.
  6. Once the bolts holding the coil in place are removed you can remove the coil from the engine.

As you can see in the photo’s this coil took a few minutes to remove. It was attached to the base plate with a slip-fit sleeve that was bolted to the plate on the underside that could not be reached with a wrench, finger or anything.

To remove the coil the whole plate had to come out which included removing the accelerator bracket which was held down by the fuel line hose holder bracket which was held down by the bolt. Then there were two more bolts to remove.

Once you have the coil out of the engine you will notice there is a sleeve it is setting in. If this is the first time the coil has ever been replaced in this engine the sleeve that holds the coil will have rivets holding it in place on both sides. These rivets need to be drilled out on both ends of the bracket.

When drilling out the rivets use a drill bit as near to the same size, if not exactly the same size, as the rivets. The coil needs to be very secure in this sleeve. Any excess movement when the coil is in the engine IE: Wiggling from engine idling, rattling from bumps on the road, can damage the coil.

The new coil will have screws with nuts in order to replace the rivets you just drill out. Put the new coil into the holder that the old coil was in. Slide the screws through the rivet holes and snug down the nuts.

Reinstall the coil on the engine. Plug in the two wire sets and the spark plug wire in the top.

Attach the negative cable wire back onto the battery.

This job is Done!

How to Install a Roof Rack

When I was preparing for a trip recently it dawned on me how convenient it would be if I had a roof rack on my Explorer. Instead of all the luggage in the cargo area and on the seats it sure would be a much more comfortable ride to have it all stowed on top of the car. I looked up roof rack’s on line to see what I may be getting into financially and was I shocked! A roof rack, without the special box that attaches to it, runs anywhere from $300 to they’re out of their mind. The name brands were the worst. I’d be looking at selling the car to purchase the roof rack! I decided it was out of the question.

The driver’s window had broke in the Explorer so I headed over to the local pick-n-pull to get a new one. I found the section that had the Ford Explorer and began looking for the 96’s when I noticed that almost all of the Explorers had roof racks! I walked the length of Ford Explorers available and one after another had roof racks! I thought, “There’s my roof rack!”. I can afford a roof rack from pick-n-pull easily! After I collected the drivers window I originally came for I got busy removing the finest looking roof rack in the lot. Thirty minutes later I was back at home cleaning it up. The total for it came to $35!! A far cry from the $300+ for a store bought one and it wasn’t half bad. Some soap and water and steel wool and it looked brand new.

They are easy to install, so not having directions didn’t matter at all. Here’s what I did to install it…

The basic roof rack consists of:

  • 2 Base rails
  • 2 End rails (one sliding, one stationary)
  • 4 Center support rails
Roof Rack Parts

There are screws or rivets that attach it to the vehicle roof:

  • 16 Flat head screw for center support rails (rivets work too)
  • 2 Large head screws for the ends (stops the rail from sliding out)
  • 6 For the base rails

The base rails will be set on the upraised area of the roof. There are grooves with low strips and high strips, put the base rails on the high strips in line with the back side of the front windows. To determine how far apart the base rails should be, set them on the roof, then set the end rails on top where they will be positioned upon completion and mark the roof where the base rails are at. I took a marker and slid it through the screw holes and marked the roof.

When you have the marks for the base rails use a punch to mark the center of the spot before drilling to help keep the drill bit tip in the correct spot for the hole. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the screw size you are using.

Set the base rails back on the roof and attach them with the screws. Use the large head screws on the ends. If the screws don’t go in snugly you may want to tap the hole with a tap the size of your screws first. Be careful not to over-enlarge the holes. Don’t attach the end rails at this point. They will only get in the way of screwing in the end screws (ones with the large stop screw head) and the base rails that go in between the base rails. Hold off until the last step for them.

The four support rails will set into the grooves already on the roof of your car. Once attached they will make the roof nearly level all the way across.

Set the support rails in position as you want them, then mark and drill your holes. Rivets can be used for the support rails and they work very well. Again, if you need to tap out the hole do so, but be careful not to over-enlarge the holes.

Once the support rails are attached it’s time for the end rails.

The end rails are the two rails that stand up off the roof with an L support. They attach to a box if you choose to purchase an enclosure box. Otherwise they hold your boxes and luggage from sliding off the front or back of the roof. They usually have the four attaching screws still in them. The base rails have a point at the ends where the end rails set and screw into them. They will not fit the wrong direction so if you can’t get them to set properly, turn them around or switch position with them until they set into position nicely.

Now you’re done! Your roof rack is ready to be loaded. The eyelets on each side are for strapping down your load. They can usually be adjusted by sliding them along the rail forward or back. Most roof rack manufacturers recommend no more than a 100 lb load on the roof. Distribute the items across the whole roof instead of piling it all in one area. Have a nice trip!

How to Change the Fuel Pump (Fuel Sending Unit)

Fuel System Repair isn’t any more difficult than any other system on a vehicle. Make sure you have the correct replacement part, take your time and inquire within!

On the majority of vehicles you will hear a fairly loud whining noise coming from the area of the fuel pump (gas tank) when the fuel pump is going out. This is your indication something is not right with the fuel pump. Some other common symptoms are:

  • Stalling especially when hot. This is caused in part from the little bit of fuel that is being pumped, evaporates before it can reach the carburetor. If you have stalling your more than likely to also have…
  • Stumbling. If you stall then your engine will stumble as well, especially under acceleration as the fuel pump tries to supply the engines demand it will stumble, heat makes this symptom worse.
  • Great gas mileage….because the engine isn’t getting gas to burn!
  • Surging. As the pump tries to supply fuel the engine surges upon each pump of the fuel pump. This can make you car sick in no time.

Today we are working on the 1989 Chevrolet Silverado 3500. Pull your hair back and remove those acrylic nails and let’s get started!

The truck started having hesitation problems and wanting to stall. It had just become a classic (30 yrs old) and I figured it’s about time to change the fuel pump anyways. I had changed the fuel filter over the years, but never the fuel pump.

I tossed around the idea of drilling an access hole in the bed of the truck like so many people have done just to avoid the challenge of dropping the tank. But I really didn’t want a hole in the bed of the truck.

Fuel System Repair

You can buy a fuel pump rebuild type of kit. It contains a fuel pump and some parts. This runs about $58. I decided on a whole new fuel pump unit which was $112. The truck is old, this is the original pump. If I’m going to drop the tank and go through it, I’m going to put a whole new pump in. I don’t want to have to do it ever again!

I came across one problem, set-back, or chauvinistic move that took more time than necessary to overcome. Before heading out to the parts store I found the pump for $112. That’s why I chose that particular parts store. When I got there and asked for the pump I was told it was $158. I disagreed. I told him I just saw it online. I ended up going out to my car, bringing the item up on my cell phone and showing it to the salesman. He tip-tapped a few more keys on his computer and replied, “Oh, yeah, there it is.” So, I eventually got the pump for the price listed, but it shouldn’t have been that difficult if you ask me. I’m just saying, “Pay attention to the prices.” If I hadn’t known better I would have paid $46 more than necessary.

Back to our fuel pump! Set the pump aside for now.

Prepare to Lower the Tank

Disconnect the negative power cable at the battery. If you have a fuel pressure release on your vehicle by all means use it and release the fuel pressure at this time. This 1989 Chevrolet did not have a pressure release valve. I wasn’t concerned due to the fact I opened the fuel cap and there was no pressure what-so-ever.

Upon inspecting the fuel fill hose I notice a lot of Black Widow webs. Since I’m not big on spiders I decided to remove the screws at the filler and slip it in so it would come out with the tank.

Black Widow webs inside this area made me decide to remove these screws and take the whole set-up out with the tank.

It’s recommended that you drain the fuel from the tank before going any further. It will also make the fuel tank lighter and easier to handle. This truck was already near empty so, again, this was a step I could skip. If you need to remove fuel from your tank make sure to use an approved canister to drain it into.

Lower the Fuel Tank

This is one of the two bolts holding the tank up.

With the fuel pressure released, the tank empty and the rear end raised up and set on jack stands, it is time to lower the fuel tank. To support the tank while I removed the screws, I used two come along’s. I positioned one at each end of the tank and weaved them through the frame in a fashion that the strap would be free to extend or retract without the whole thing slipping through. Photo’s didn’t provide a very good view but this drawing might help.

The red rectangle is the fuel tank. The blue stripped X’s are the come along’s, the grey is the frame and transmission and the red is the filler hose to the fuel tank.

I wedged the come along box between the running boards on the left side of the truck, then weaved the come along strap over the frame, under the fuel tank, under the drive line and attached the hook onto the far side of the frame. I did the same with the second come along.

Come along strap holding tank up.

After I had the come along’s attached to the truck I pulled up the slack so they were setting on the bottom of the tank but not “holding” the tank but ready to hold it.

Before lowering the tank at all I removed the ground wire for the filler hose as pictured.

Remove tank ground wire before trying to lower tank or it may rip out.

The straps holding the tank only need the two bolts on the passenger side removed. The other side of the straps are slip-fitted so they can just hang down once the bolts are removed on the one side.

I began lowering the tank by unscrewing the two bolts holding the straps of the fuel tank. As I unscrewed the bolts I could see the tank visibly lean on the come along straps just as planned.

The bolts were long with a fine thread so the unscrewing was slow, unless you have a drill that you can attach to your socket and just go for it! I used the drill method when I put it back up, but bringing it down I wanted to make sure my straps were going to hold the tank before dropping so I did the slow ratchet.

Once the screws are out and the tank is resting on your straps slowly release the straps, lowering the tank further, until you can reach all the hose lines coming out of the top of the tank. They should come out the top of the fuel tank and hang over slightly on the drivers side. They attach to lines that run up the frame rail to the engine.

There is a fuel feed like, a return line and a drain. The drain has a rubber hose pressed onto it. The other two are screw pressure fittings. Make sure to note which line goes to which. I put a red mark on one of the screw pressure bolts across to it’s matching hose.

Once these are removed there is an electrical connection and another ground wire in this same area. Disconnect the electric wires and remove the ground.

Now you can lower the tank to the ground and slide it out from under the truck. If it won’t fit out from under the truck you will have to raise the truck higher. Forcing the tank out from under the truck will damage the fuel lines on top.

Fuel tank with gas line still attached.

To remove the fuel pump you need to remove the locking tab at the top of the tank. In the photo below I have outlined the piece that needs to turn until the slots line up with the open slots. In other words knock of the locking tab and twist the part that is outlined in red in the picture below counter clockwise.

Twist the ring outlined in red to release it and then the fuel pump will lift out.

Once you get the locking ring to turn and release, you can pull the fuel pump up and out of the tank. WARNING: Use care when removing the fuel pump. There is a leveling roller and a screen on the bottom half of the pump. So you may need to tilt the pump to get the bottom part out safely.

If you opted for the rebuild kit, this is the time to start removing parts that are contained in the kit and replacing them on the pump. My truck’s pump looked so tired and worn out I just went for a complete new one as I mentioned above. The kit costs around $56. Twice that for a new one.

Now is the time to do a thorough cleaning of the inside of the fuel tank. There are fuel tank cleaning products available at auto parts stores and online.

Install the New Pump

Removing the wrapping, if any, that is on the new pump. Lower it into the tank carefully. There is a large O ring that sets down first, then the fuel pump, then the locking device. Compressing the O ring enough to get the locking ring on can prove to be challenging. Use some Vaseline on it to help. Use a good gob of Vaseline! Make sure the locking ring is set onto the pump lip and twisted to the right until it is fully locked. The pump should not have a wiggle to it at all once it is locked in.

Aint it perty!

Now transfer the mark you made on the old pump to indicate it’s match on the truck onto the new pump.

  1. Slide the fuel tank back under the truck. I used my feet to get it into position, shoving and sliding it around with just my feet worked fine.
  2. Slide your come along straps under the tank and re-attach to the frame in preparation for lifting the tank.
  3. Start ratcheting the come along’s evenly until you can re-attach the lines on the fuel tank to the one’s on the truck rail.
  4. Re-connect the electrical.
  5. Re-connect the ground wires (2 of them).
  6. Lift the tank further guiding the fuel tank filler hose up over the frame towards it’s outlet on the side of the truck (If you took it out like I did).
  7. When you can get a jack under the fuel tank trade the come along’s for jacks. One at each end, centered under the fuel tank well.
  8. Jack the tank up until the straps can be screwed back in. Again, a socket with electric drill works best if you can get the drill in there. There’s a lot of space.
  9. Re-attach the fuel fill hose to the filler hole. Tighten all hose clamps you loosened or removed.
  10. Re-attach the negative battery cable.
  11. Turn the key to the “ON” position. Can you hear the pump start up? You should.

Start it up! It may take just a few seconds for fuel to reach the carburetor.

Awesome! You’re good for several thousand miles now!