Summer is almost upon us with beautiful, glistening, lakes waiting for you to jet across! But first, you’ll want to rebuild that carburetor on your jet ski.
We’ll be working on the Yamaha 2000 XL 700.
Rebuilding a carburetor is easy work if you follow a few very simple, yet seemingly obvious rules:
- Work in a clean area. Decide where you plan to work on the carburetor and clean up the area. Get rid of any clutter. Wipe everything down. The cleaner the better. One errant piece of dirt can screw up the whole rebuild process.
- As you remove parts, mark and label them. Have several bowls or cups set out to put screws in with a label. The sizes of the screws in a carburetor are as various as where you will take them from. This is really important.
- Have a good light set up where your going to be working, along with lint free towels and paper towels.
- Don’t remove anything until you have your rebuild kit in your hand. If you take the carburetor all apart while your waiting for the rebuild kit pieces have a good chance of disappearing.
Decide where your going to work on the carburetor, order or pick up your carburetor rebuild kit specific to your jet skis carburetor type. When you open the carburetor kit be very careful because some of the pieces are clear and very hard to see. You don’t want to lose them!
You will also want to have rags (lint free), spray carb cleaner, some Q-tips for the tiny passages, and compressed air, a screw driver (one pan and one phillips head).
Remove the Carburetor From the Jet Ski
You will need to remove the carburetor from the jet ski to work on it. Disconnect the negative from the battery terminal to avoid accidental starts.
1st In the engine compartment locate the air intake. The carburetor is below it. There are 6 screws attaching the air intake.
I removed the hoses while the carburetor body was still attached to the engine. It gave me leverage to get the hoses of and I didn’t risk removing a hose by accident and not seeing where it came from. As you remove the hoses label them! A piece of tape with a note written in black marker is all you need.
Label the hoses as you remove them! You can use tape to label them or write directly on the hose with a marker.
Now it’s time to remove the carburetor from the engine. Remember the throttle cable is still attached. It’s easier to remove it once you pull the carbs out.
These are dual carburetors that work in sync. Pay attention to how the carburetors are connected. Take a picture of it if you need to help you remember how they link.
The bolts attaching the carburetor to the engine have red arrows pointing to them. The yellow arrow, bottom center, is where the two carburetors connect.
When you are ready to pull the carburetors out lift them up together until you can access the throttle cable on the front side (looking down, the right hand side) of the carburetors.
The throttle cable has a barrel on the end of it that is set inside the throttle lever. To get the barrel to come out of the side of the hole you must line up the throttle cable wire with the slit in the throttle arm. Then the barrel will slide out of it’s home.
Now you have the carburetors out it’s time to rebuild it! Take it to your work area and grab a handful of paper towels or something else very absorbent because the first thing you’re going to open will have standing fuel in it. Just carrying the carburetors to your bench you may notice fuel leaking from passages. That’s okay. It’s supposed to have fuel in the passages.
Lay out your carburetor rebuild kit pieces and the instructions if any were provided. Rebuild kits will have extra pieces in it usually. These rebuild kits are assembled with multiple types of carburetors in mind. Your particular carburetors may, or may not, need all the various pieces in your kit.
As you work, do not change any of the adjustments on the carburetor or you will need to re-tune it when you are done! If you leave the screws on the outside where they are, you won’t have to re-tune it.
Start by selecting one of the carburetors to start with and separate the carburetors. Turn the carburetor over and remove the four screws on the bottom. These may prove to be difficult to remove. The screws on mine were so tight I ended up using vice gripes to get them started unscrewing so I wouldn’t ruin the phillips head on them.
When you separate the bottom this is what you will see inside. Look at your carburetor kit pieces and anything matching, replace. For example: The black diaphragm will definitely need to be replaced. The clear plastic piece will too. Any “O” rings as well.
Systematically go through each section of the carburetor cleaning all surfaces, spraying out all passages with carburetor cleaning then compressed air. Set the pieces aside in the order you removed them. There may be some white chalky material or goop the consistency of jello in it, wipe it out. Gasoline turns into a jello type substance when it sits for a while.
Once you have every surface and passage cleaned you will start putting it back together just as you took it apart. Look in your carburetor kit pieces and replace all “o” rings, gaskets, clear and otherwise, springs, float needle, etc. Your carburetor kit will most likely supply every gasket you need but not all the screws and springs. Some springs, etc., don’t need to be replaced so they are not provided.
When you have it all put back together pay attention to how the two carburetors link together. Mine were not liked properly, or at all I should say, just linking them properly made a world of difference in performance!
Make sure to tighten the last four screws really well or they will leak for sure! That is the main gas area where the float is. It has gas in it constantly so make sure you tork them down well.
You’re ready to put the carburetors back in the jet ski and you’re done! Good Job!