Jet Ski Carburetor Rebuild + Photo’s!

Summer is almost upon us with beautiful, glistening, lakes waiting for you to jet across! But first, you’ll want to rebuild that carburetor on your jet ski.

We’ll be working on the Yamaha 2000 XL 700.

Carburetor rebuild kits for your Jet ski on Amazon!

Rebuilding a carburetor is easy work if you follow a few very simple, yet seemingly obvious rules:

  • Work in a clean area. Decide where you plan to work on the carburetor and clean up the area. Get rid of any clutter. Wipe everything down. The cleaner the better. One errant piece of dirt can screw up the whole rebuild process.
  • As you remove parts, mark and label them. Have several bowls or cups set out to put screws in with a label. The sizes of the screws in a carburetor are as various as where you will take them from. This is really important.
  • Have a good light set up where your going to be working, along with lint free towels and paper towels.
  • Don’t remove anything until you have your rebuild kit in your hand. If you take the carburetor all apart while your waiting for the rebuild kit pieces have a good chance of disappearing.

Decide where your going to work on the carburetor, order or pick up your carburetor rebuild kit specific to your jet skis carburetor type. When you open the carburetor kit be very careful because some of the pieces are clear and very hard to see. You don’t want to lose them!

You will also want to have rags (lint free), spray carb cleaner, some Q-tips for the tiny passages, and compressed air, a screw driver (one pan and one phillips head).

Remove the Carburetor From the Jet Ski

You will need to remove the carburetor from the jet ski to work on it. Disconnect the negative from the battery terminal to avoid accidental starts.

1st In the engine compartment locate the air intake. The carburetor is below it. There are 6 screws attaching the air intake.

I removed the hoses while the carburetor body was still attached to the engine. It gave me leverage to get the hoses of and I didn’t risk removing a hose by accident and not seeing where it came from. As you remove the hoses label them! A piece of tape with a note written in black marker is all you need.

Label the hoses as you remove them! You can use tape to label them or write directly on the hose with a marker.

Now it’s time to remove the carburetor from the engine. Remember the throttle cable is still attached. It’s easier to remove it once you pull the carbs out.

These are dual carburetors that work in sync. Pay attention to how the carburetors are connected. Take a picture of it if you need to help you remember how they link.

The bolts attaching the carburetor to the engine have red arrows pointing to them. The yellow arrow, bottom center, is where the two carburetors connect.

When you are ready to pull the carburetors out lift them up together until you can access the throttle cable on the front side (looking down, the right hand side) of the carburetors.

The throttle cable has a barrel on the end of it that is set inside the throttle lever. To get the barrel to come out of the side of the hole you must line up the throttle cable wire with the slit in the throttle arm. Then the barrel will slide out of it’s home.

Now you have the carburetors out it’s time to rebuild it! Take it to your work area and grab a handful of paper towels or something else very absorbent because the first thing you’re going to open will have standing fuel in it. Just carrying the carburetors to your bench you may notice fuel leaking from passages. That’s okay. It’s supposed to have fuel in the passages.

Lay out your carburetor rebuild kit pieces and the instructions if any were provided. Rebuild kits will have extra pieces in it usually. These rebuild kits are assembled with multiple types of carburetors in mind. Your particular carburetors may, or may not, need all the various pieces in your kit.

As you work, do not change any of the adjustments on the carburetor or you will need to re-tune it when you are done! If you leave the screws on the outside where they are, you won’t have to re-tune it.

Start by selecting one of the carburetors to start with and separate the carburetors. Turn the carburetor over and remove the four screws on the bottom. These may prove to be difficult to remove. The screws on mine were so tight I ended up using vice gripes to get them started unscrewing so I wouldn’t ruin the phillips head on them.

When you separate the bottom this is what you will see inside. Look at your carburetor kit pieces and anything matching, replace. For example: The black diaphragm will definitely need to be replaced. The clear plastic piece will too. Any “O” rings as well.

Systematically go through each section of the carburetor cleaning all surfaces, spraying out all passages with carburetor cleaning then compressed air. Set the pieces aside in the order you removed them. There may be some white chalky material or goop the consistency of jello in it, wipe it out. Gasoline turns into a jello type substance when it sits for a while.

Once you have every surface and passage cleaned you will start putting it back together just as you took it apart. Look in your carburetor kit pieces and replace all “o” rings, gaskets, clear and otherwise, springs, float needle, etc. Your carburetor kit will most likely supply every gasket you need but not all the screws and springs. Some springs, etc., don’t need to be replaced so they are not provided.

When you have it all put back together pay attention to how the two carburetors link together. Mine were not liked properly, or at all I should say, just linking them properly made a world of difference in performance!

The main carburetor is supposed to actuate the second carburetor at this junction. As you can see the second carburetor wasn’t in the correct position to be actuated!

Make sure to tighten the last four screws really well or they will leak for sure! That is the main gas area where the float is. It has gas in it constantly so make sure you tork them down well.

You’re ready to put the carburetors back in the jet ski and you’re done! Good Job!

Amazon has every carburetor rebuild kit available right here!

Replace the Wear Ring – Jet Ski

The wear ring is exactly what it implies. It’s a ring located on the inside of the impeller housing that wears out over time. The more you use your jet ski, the faster the wear ring will wear out.

Before we dive into replacing the wear ring, let’s go over some jet ski safety and remind you how the jet ski works.

Your jet ski is essentially a small boat. Boats don’t have a brake to stop them. In order to stop, you release the throttle finger pull and the jet ski stops accelerating and eventually comes to a stop. Any object, boat, fellow jet skier, dock, what ever, that is within thirty feet is a potential danger if you don’t stop accelerating soon enough.

When approaching an object, direct the jet ski to the side of the object, not directly at it. This way if the jet ski does not come to a stop before the object, it will merely pass by it.

When the accelerator is released, or the jet ski’s power is shut off, the ability to turn the jet ski is reduced to zero. The jet engine must have water propelling through it in order to turn.

The first time you take your jet ski on the water, practice. Practicing to maneuver your jet ski, at a slow speed will be a great asset for when there is a loss of power. Most accidents on jet skis happen within the first HOUR of a novice rider entering the water. The concept of no brakes takes a little bit of getting used to, so practice for your own safety as well as others.

How Jet Propulsion Works

A basic understanding of jet propulsion is necessary if you plan on doing your own work. It’s different from other powered water vessels (except jet boats) in the manner you turn and stop.

As you can see from the photo above; when the jet ski is running, the impeller draws water up from the surrounding water underneath. The water then passes through the impeller and expelled out the back through the venturi. The nozzle on the end, attached to the venturi, directs the water stream. The nozzle is controlled by the rider via a cable attached to the handlebars and the nozzle. This is the flow of propulsion.

The photo below shows an example using a gallon of water. The venturi narrows the water down super fast and forces it through a smaller hole. Think of a gallon of water, and you put a large straw into it, then force the water as fast as possible out of the gallon through the straw. You can imagine the force the water would come out the straw would be much higher than going into the straw. That’s the venturi, the straw, narrowing the water down to increase the force!

When you accelerate the impeller draws water up and through itself, which forces the water out at such a high rate of speed you can turn the handle bars and it will cause the jet ski to move in that direction from the water pushing it. If you decelerate suddenly, or lose power, you loose your ability to steer because you no longer have the forced water to push the jet ski.

Just about anyone with a toolbox can replace a wear ring. A few parts must be removed to access it first. For this hub a 2000 Yamaha XL700Y was the model used. Other jet skis are similar. A manual for your particular model is always helpful. There are some sites that offer the manuals free.

If you’re asking yourself where does the wear ring come into play, the answer is: every step of the propulsion process.

The wear ring is one of the vital components to the propulsion process of a jet ski. Tucked snugly inside the impellor housing it is often overlooked. If you know what you are looking for you can see it readily. If not, you would be hard pressed to believe there is a vital component that needs replacing.

The wear ring is a liner on the inside of the impellor housing. The impellor grazes along it when it spins. The wear ring…

  • Allows the impellor the maximum drawing power to suck up the surrounding water into the jet motor by providing very little dead space.
  • Forces the drawn up water to pass through the impeller providing maximum impeller thrust.
  • Seals the impeller housing, around the impeller, to provide you, the rider, with maximum speed!

As the jet ski is used the wear ring slowly wears down. Sometimes rocks or fishing weights will be drawn up by the impeller causing dings and scratches in the wear ring. Wearing down or dings in a wear ring will cause a gap to appear between the impeller and the surrounding wear ring. This gap should not exceed 0.10″.

When either regular use or foreign objects reduce the capabilites of the wear ring you may notice:

  • Reduced turning abilty. Because the wear ring can’t seal the impeller in the housing, there is random water sprayed out by the jet, as opposed to directed water.
  • Reduced power. The impeller cannot draw the water up and force it through the jet at maximum efficiency causing the jet ski to run slower.

Accessing the Wear Ring

Put the jet ski on a hoist or table made to hold a jet ski, somewhere you can easily access the back-end where the jet is. Remove these items in the order they are listed.


  1. …if equipped, the reverse gate cable and assembly.
  2. …6 screws retaining metal plate under the jet pump assembly.
  3. …steering cable connection. This is usually sliding sleeve or a nut and screw.
  4. …hoses connected to the venturi.
  5. …four long screws retaining venturi through pump housing, through impeller housing, to jet ski hull.
  6. …venturi. The impeller housing may come out with the venturi and pump housing as one unit. Also, you may need a fiber or rubber hammer to tap on the housing to loosen it for removal. A puller would be even better but not everyone has a jet pump puller, so tap gently.
  7. If the jet pump housing, and impeller housing, didn’t come out in step six, then remove it now.

Now you are ready to get that ring out!

Remove the Wear Ring

Reference the photo’s to remove the wear ring from the impeller housing.

  1. Locate the wear ring inside the impeller housing.
  2. Use a saw, dremel or any cutting device that you can control well. When cutting the wear ring it is critical that you do not penetrate the wall of the impeller housing. That kind of damage could be critical in a housing, so be sure your cutting tool is under your control.
  3. Cut a groove anywhere inside the ring. This is when you will want to pay attention to the depth. The wear ring is about 1/4″ thick or less.
  4. Once you have the groove cut, bend the wear ring down bit by bit all around the edge.
  5. Slide the ring out of the housing and you’re done.

Now let’s put the new one in!

Insert the New Wear Ring

Set the wear ring just inside the lip of the impeller housing. Lay a two-by-four across the top. Press down evenly on the two-by-four to get the ring started into the housing. Then use a hammer to tap on the board. Turn the board a quarter turn and tap again. Turning the board every other tap or so. The wear ring is supposed to be very snug. Once it is seated inside the housing you can put everything back as you took it off paying attention to the torque specifications and grease specifications. The impeller may prove to be difficult to slide back into the housing once the new wear ring is in. If it is really difficult; grease the inside of the wear ring to assist the impeller in sliding in.

Now that the wear ring is seated inside the impeller housing it’s time to put everything back together. Follow the steps for removal in a reverse order. The impeller will be a snug fit when you insert it into the impeller housing due to the new wear ring. Take your time and it will slide in. Make sure you use lock tight on bolts and torque them as specified in your jet ski manual.

Your new wear ring is ready to go. You’ll be very happy with the speed and improved handling you’ll experience with the new wear ring!

Ski Safe!